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Bicycle cables

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… And grind it.
As it comes out of the box, outer casing of both types has ground-flat ends. To maximise braking or shifting performance, the freshly-cut end must also be ground flat and square. A suitable grinder is available for around £25 from an outlet such as Machine Mart.

 

Opening up the casing liner with a scriber.

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The heat generated by grinding the casing melts the plastic liner. Open the end of the liner using a scriber or similar sharp implement.

 

So, casings cut to length, they can be installed. If this is the easy bit, it’s also the messy one. That section of the inner

 

 

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wire that sits inside the casing should be lightly greased to ensure a long and reliable service life. Having greased the inner wires, clean your hands thoroughly to avoid getting grease on the bars or cable casings, where it will prevent tape from sticking.

 

Then fix the bicycle cables to the handlebars. Cheap, flexible, reasonably strong and waterproof, electrical insulating tape is probably the most popular choice. The key point here is to get the cables pulled really tight into the inside of the handlebar bend. There should be no space behind the cable.

 

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“So, casings cut to length,

they can be installed.

If this is the easy bit, it’s also the messy one.”

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1 Response

  1. 05/02/2016

    […] I’m happy with the result. The gears change as smoothly as ever, the brakes work perfectly which is partly due to them being thoroughly stripped and cleaned as part of the process, and the bars are comfortable. I prefer thinner tape and I’m impressed how cushioned this tape is despite it’s lack of bulk. I tried to rip an offcut of the bar tape and I’m pleased to report that it held up well. Although bar tape is relatively cheap and most people treat it as a consumable you want it to stand up to a bit of abuse. For a thorough description of cables, take a look at our article on cable fitting. […]

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