La Fausto Coppi Mangia and Pedala
I had no idea what I was going to do and very little information on the region other than what Google provided. Although reassuringly I was informed that it was a great place for wine and risotto, various quaint towns, stunning mountain scenery and for shopaholics, the sales just happened to be at the same time.
Initially I planned to take my own bike and explore the region a little until Robert explained what life can be like on the Italian roads and how he didn’t like the idea of me going out alone. Feeling patronised an intense discussion followed, but luckily an alternative option was discovered. The organisers of the Gran Fondo also offer an alternative cycling event for families, La Fausto Coppi Mangia and Pedala.
Ready to roll out on La Fausto Coppi Mangia and Pedala
This event takes place at a much more civilized time in the morning. It cost only 10 euros and apart from visiting a couple of farms with tastings on the trip it also included entrance to the pasta party provided for the finishers of La Fausto Coppi. The event is designed for family and open to all. The youngest member of our group was only three, whilst the older members were of retirement age and beyond.
The group included riders of all ages and abilities
The organisation had also managed to source (with notice) a bike or two for other wives, who had, like me accompanied their spouses. However, I noted that in the pedestrianised shopping zone there were town bikes available to rent which I am sure would work quite well. In fact, I felt that my road bike was a little out of place given that part of the trip involved navigating a farm track.*
The event was well supported by local people and they made a great effort to communicate to everyone within the group whatever the language. We were introduced to Mario, who was responsible for keeping everyone safe and came prepared for any emergency, especially punctures. Whilst others were keen to explain local history or help translate information about our visit.
Quiet, flat lanes, blues skies and beautiful countryside, what more could you ask?
Apart from leaving Cuneo, most of the riding is done on really quiet lanes with very little traffic. I hate to admit that Robert was right about Italian drivers and what I did see of the traffic left me horrified and somewhat relieved to be with an organised group. Thankfully it didn’t take long to get into the countryside and we slowly meandered along relatively flat lanes to the first farm, passing a beautifully painted chapel dedicated to pilgrims on the route to Santiago de Compostella.
The road narrowed into a short gravel track, where we dismounted and walked towards orchards where tables of refreshments had been laid out, mostly produce direct from the farm. The farmers gave a short presentation about their ecological produce, including unique local varieties which we were then invited to try. There was plenty to eat and drink, especially fresh fruit and a variety of snacks.
This being Italy you will have to stop and eat, several times!
Having spent a considerable time eating and chatting it was time to move on, although we didn’t get very far. Less than a kilometre down the road we stopped at Vallera, a tiny village reputed to have the best water to replenish bidons, it also happened to be conveniently placed opposite a fantastic gelateria. Despite having just eaten, many found space to accommodate a little ice cream and use the facilities.
Some time later and we were on the move again. The lanes became quieter and leafier as we made our way along the valley closer to the mountains. We followed the river to Valgrana, a traditional village with great views of the mountains where we stopped once again to look at more frescos giving Mario time to assist with punctures.
In the distance the mountains beckon, but not today
En route to our next destination I spent some time chatting with my companions. I was introduced to Claudia who at 3 years old was the youngest and most enthusiastic cyclist within our group. She had been attached to her father’s bike with a tow bar whilst negotiating the main roads, but now was left free to pedal under her own steam. Her cycling etiquette was impeccable as she warned others of cars up ahead and gave clear hand signals. Her father explained that during the previous week she had been touring the Austrian Alps in much the same manner and showed no signs of slowing down after almost thirty kilometres.
We turned into the courtyard of the second farm, surrounded by honey coloured stone barns and houses. Time for group photos, bathroom visits and cooling off before entering the barn for our second presentation. This farm specialises in the production of garlic which was hanging in bunches and garlands along the balconies. Traditional food had been cooked for us to sample, which naturally included garlic and lentils.
Photo opportunities are as regular as the stops to sample the local produce
It looked and smelled wonderful but sadly I didn’t get an opportunity to sample any of it thanks to Robert who had decided to meet up given that the farm was so close to our hotel. He loathes garlic and wanted to drag me away before I had the opportunity to stink out the hotel room, so we made our excuses and left. Much, much later on the group finally reached Cuneo having taken the best part of six hours to cover just over fifty kilometres.
La Mangia and Pedala is a great event for families or people wanting to enjoy a little cyclotourism. You don’t have to be a strong or regular cyclist to participate as the route goes around the valley floor which involves very little climbing. The pace is relaxed and there are many stops along the way for rest, relaxation and a bite to eat. For this reason it takes up most of the day and may not be suitable for more impatient types.
La Fausto Coppi Mangia and Pedala is all about sampling the local culture and enjoying the company, sporty types might want to try the Fausto Coppi sportive instead
The locals supporting the ride were more than happy to share their knowledge of the history and traditions in the region and made everyone feel welcome and included. Apart from the short distances on main roads to get in and out of Cuneo the rest of the ride uses quiet lanes with very little traffic so is relatively safe for children too.
*Having done a little research on my return there are a number of options for hiring bikes in this region, Veloce have pick up and drop off points all over Piedmont. The Tourist Information also provide the following links; Cuneo Bike Hotels and Cuneo Holiday, all hotels under the Cuneo bike hotel scheme offer bike rental as one of their services.
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